Castello di Pietra is to the north-east of Gavorrano. It’s part of Parco Tecnologico Archeologico Delle Colline Metallifere Grossetane, so if you’re trying to find it you can always drop in to Gavorrano’s tourist information centre or visit the park’s website.

Since prehistoric times, there have been small permanent settlements located in the caves that open along the eastern slopes of the hill where this castle is located. However, the first mention of the castle itself is in 1067, when it was included among the property of the Sestinga family.

In 1203, the inhabitants of Castel di Pietra wanted to prevent the transit of Grossetano salt that did not come from either the Aldobrandeschi or Sienese stores (following a pact between Ildebrandino VIII Aldobrandeschi and Siena). So in 1307, the Municipality of Massa (Massa Marittima) positioned four soldiers at the Castello di Pietro to control the road between the salt plains and the Grosseto.

From watch tower, the castle became the 13th century home of a clique linked to Pannocchieschi family before passing to the Municipality of Massa in 1328 following the death of Nello Pannocchieschi.

In the following centuries plenty of other prominent families coveted control of Gavorrano with its rich mines and endless battles were fought around the castle. The death toll was high and human remains dating to this period have been found around the castle in recent excavations.

But for most, the Castel di Pietro is the stuff of legends rather than the stuff of history. The locals believe Pia de ‘Tolomei jumped (or was pushed) to her death here. The castle was then owned by her husband Nello Pannocchieschi, who they say wanted to marry Margaret Aldobrandeschi.

This legend is so fascinating and poignant that it was reconstructed in Dante Alighieri’s Divina Commedia and is celebrated in the annual Salto della Contessa festival.

In Gavorrano itself, you’ll find the Centro di documentazione di Castel di Pietra museum, which recreates this legend. The museum also displays panels, drawings and artifacts which depict, or were taken, from the castle. There are also some photos of the recent excavations that have been going on in the surrounding territory.

On one of the walls of the castle is plaque (above). Even those who don’t understand Italian find the verse inscribed on it enchanting… but it’s even more beautiful if you can understand it, so I’ve translated it for you. They are the words of Pia written by Dante:

“A third spirit, followed on the second:
‘Ah, when you return to the world,
and are rested after your long journey,
remember me who am La Pia:
Siena made me: Maremma undid me:
he knows, who having first pledged himself to me, wed me with his ring.’
(Purgatorio, V, 130-136),