This is the one and only time I’ll ever admit this, but I know most people have never heard of the undiscovered slice of Tuscan holiday paradise that is the Maremma.

But you can bet your fluffy slippers they’ve heard of the adorable creature featured above.

And despite my very best efforts over the last two years, this dog still comes up first when you google the Maremma.

In fact, it probably always will because for some reason completely unknown to me, people love this dog. They love it so much, they google it endlessly.

Now that’s fine by me. The Maremman sheepdog or cane da pastore Maremmano is a beautiful dog. I want one, but our garden is too small.

But I recently came across an article that mentioned conservationists in home country, Australia, conducted a world-first trial where they used the Maremman sheepdog to guard the dwindling penguin population of Middle Island, just off the coast of Warrnabool.

The trial was a huge success and, reading it, I felt pretty smug. Trust an amazing territory like the Maremma to raise a dog smart enough to protect, rather than eat, penguins.

But to born and bred Maremmani, this dog is much more than shepherd with four legs or the in-vogue pet of the nouveau rich.

It is a living representation of the hardest, but most defining years of their history. The years when Italy was newly unified and a meagre livelihood was scraped together from the land.

Twice a year the Maremman farmers were forced to make the long and arduous transumanza (transhumance) into Abruzzo and greener pastures, their sheepdogs at their side.

There is this beautiful poem of the Maremman sheepdog, so white, it blended with the sheep it looked after. The locals called it the ‘White Watchman’, the protector in a time when Italy was still wild and fraught.

Curzio Malaparte writes:

“Many and strange are the voices of the Maremma, but the most familiar, the most noble and ancient is the voice of the Maremman dogs, shepherd dogs with long white hair and ears both alert and lazy. Their bark full of stately indolence covers every other voice, blends with the murmur of wild herbs, the roar of the surf, the whistle of the wind, the neighing of ponies .. and there is no encounter more dear to the heart than that of the white Maremman dog that suddenly appears on the side of hills or on the edge of the forest of tamarisk, between the dunes of the ocean, along the south-west wind ruffled fur, the fawn eyes where the delicate glow of day dies. 

They are sheepdogs , that is, guardians of the flock, but more than guardians, they too are custodians of the traditions of this land. They are the faithful guardians of the landscape, of the meadows, the olive trees, the cypresses, the oaks with black foliage, the keepers of this lean ground where there are the imprints of the strong and gentle Etruscan Apollo, long braids scattered over athletic shoulders.”

It’s even more beautiful in Italian, trust me.

For those in Abruzzo, the arrival of the shepherd and their sheep would mean milk and long forgotten fresh cheese. It was a time of celebration, as their small mountain towns expanded to embrace the visitors.

But back in the Maremma, women and children would mourn the long absence of fathers and grandfathers, uncles and brothers. The money they scraped together and sent home no salve for the lack of comfort and company.

While the transumanza is hardly practised anymore, the Maremman sheepdogs remain as a symbol of the past.

Thought to have been introduced into the territory in the 3rd century BCE, il cane da pastore Maremmano has sat at the feet of Roman generals and Medieval dukes, but it is best remembered as the companion of those wind weathered men who travelled the countryside to feed their families.

For Maremmani, the first of May is one of the most beautiful days of the year.

Don’t believe me? When I first moved to the Maremma, my host dad dragged me through the streets of Manciano singing the ‘Canti di Maggio’ (Songs of May), despite the fact that I didn’t know any of the words and was firmly in the grips of a very nasty flu.

If that wasn’t bad enough, he made me wear the funniest costume. Let’s just say I looked like a 15th century peasant who had had a fight with a  garden of flowers… and the flowers won.

Jokes aside,  May Day or Calendimaggio is a truly Tuscan tradition.

In Florence, the entire month is celebrated with the exquisite Maggio Musicale Fiorentino – an annual arts festival where a series of contemporary and forgotten operatic performances are brought life in visually dramatic productions.

In the Maremma, we don’t have grand operas or huge theatres, so we celebrate Calendimaggio the old way, the pagan way.

There is this beautiful story of Dante Alighieri, Italy’s Shakespeare, attending his first May Day celebrations in 1274. While he was standing there admiring the flowers, the music and the dancing, Dante, who was only nine at the time, first glimpsed his beloved Beatrice. He was smitten for life.

For some reason whenever I try to describe Calendimaggio, I always end up telling this story. I think it’s because it sums up the significance of an event that would otherwise just seem like another beautiful, floral celebration to us non-Italians.

At the very heart of May Day is the imminent arrival of summer. The first hints of the glorious sun are shining down on Tuscany and its residents are waking up from their hibernation.

They are filled with such joy at the changing of the seasons that they embrace everything that makes life worth living – music, play, dance, food, entertainment and, of course, love.

In the next week all over the Maremma, towns and cities will be celebrating these things in their own special way.

In the Fiora Valley, where I live, we will crown a Regina di Maggio (Queen of May). It’s a position every girl dreams of because the queen leads the May Day songs and dances. She is the object of everyone’s affection and the very embodiment of the month we are celebrating.

Young boys and girls dressed up as brigands and young maidens will drape themselves in garlands of flowers and bright streamers.

They’re called maggerini and follow the queen and il majo, a boy carrying a floral branch that represents springs, from house to house playing the harmonica and singing the folklore songs in exchange for flowers, wine, eggs and other delicious treats.

In some corners of the Maremma, there might be two, three or four of these groups per town. They won’t just be made up of young boys and girls, but anyone who wants to sing. They’ll compete musically. The best group will usually have a poet who can make up songs and rhymes about the seasons on the spot. They always get the most treats.

The flowers the maggerini collect will adorn the houses of all those who are young and in love. The food and wine, on the other hand, is shared at the end of night at a huge party in the piazza. Songs of love, nature and the seasons are sung long into the night.

It’s a beautiful event to be a part of, and reading this post back, I don’t think I’ve even done it justice.

It’s hard to put into words a festival that is essentially a representation of life and love and summer. I feel a bit like a pretentious twat trying to do so, so you’ll just have to see it yourself. There is nothing touristy about Calendimaggio. You’ll be swept away.

You don’t have be in the Fiora Valley to be part of the festival. Wherever you are, there are sure to be celebrations in the coming days, so keep your eyes open for flowers and your ears peeled for music. 

The biggest festival is in Braccagni, north of Grosseto. 

Here’s a little video to give you an idea of what Calendimaggio is all about. These singers are from Follonica:

Watch this video on YouTube.

We’ve already covered the reds here, so now we’re moving onto the venerable whites that have captured the international wine world’s heart and put the Maremma on the map.

Valentina, my sommelier friend, and I had to put a few days between tasting the reds and tasting the whites, so apologies. It was my fault. I got a little tipsy.

She said swirl and spit, but all I heard was scull. Just to clarify, I don’t have a drinking problem… I just couldn’t let such great wines go to waste… it wouldn’t have been right!

But moving on. There are only two principal DOC whites in the Maremma, which is interesting if you consider how many of their fellow reds have received this illustrious recognition.

But Valentina insists it’s not so much a quality issue as a grape thing. The Sangiovese is the most common grape grown in the Maremma and it just happens to be a red grape varietal. No mystery. It just grows really well over here.

That’s not to say that Maremman whites aren’t as good.

One of the things I have always loved about them is their extreme delicacy. They have none of the knock-down-your-door robustness of the locals reds, which I think is extremely pleasant. Sometimes you just want to be able to enjoy both the wine and the meal and not have one dominate the other.

So on that note, let’s discuss them.

Bianco di Pitigliano

Trust Pitigliano to have an incredible win named after it, and what a wine!

The Bianco di Pitigliano is hands down the Maremma’s most famous white. The Trebbiano grape that is used is grown in Pitigliano and in the surrounding Manciano, Scansano and Sorano, and is beautifully delicate.

If that wasn’t enough, this venerable white also has an amazing history, created in the centuries when Pitigliano was a haven to a huge Jewish community. The city’s nickname is actually Piccola Gerusalemme or Little Jerusalem!

The original Bianco di Pitigliano was, Valentina tells me, a Kosher wine, and if you hunt hard enough you can still buy kosher versions of this wine in Pitigliano.

Kosher wines are made differently from normal wines in that they follow strict Jewish law in production and in the use of non-Kosher meat products as finings.

Pitigliano’s 16th century Jewish community would make their wine in tall wooden barrels and then preserve them in the tufa rock caves that were originally carved by the Etruscans.

Non-kosher versions of the Bianco di Pitigliano are still aged this way along the Strada Panoramica that leads into the city.

The wine itself is a beautiful yellow colour flecked with green. On the nose it has a slightly fruity aroma, while on the palate it’s dry, lively with a slightly bitter aftertaste. You really can’t go past it if you’re having fish, especially my all time favourite Italian pasta dish spaghetti scampi!

Events:

Every September, all the cantine (wine cellars) in Pitigliano open their doors for the Festa della Cantina. Almost as good as the Mancianese event of the same name, this noisy festival is about celebrating the best wines of the year, washed down with plenty of local culinary delights like Pitigliano’s national  biscuit – Lo Sfratto, which was coincidentally also created by the 16th century Jewish community and has an aniseed flavour.

Where to get the Bianco di Pitigliano: 

If you’re looking for a truly great Bianco and a traditional experience to boot, you can’t go past the Cantina di Pitigliano. This wine cellar doesn’t actually grow the grapes, they just maintain a centuries’ old custom where all the local grape growers bring their grapes to them for crushing.

The cellar keeps a percentage and you get to indulge in the purest and most authentic Bianco di Pitigliano you’ll ever try, without any of the new age pretentious!

For spectacular views along with your wine, head for Villa Corano on the outskirts of Pitigliano. They run regular tastings on their sprawling vineyard in both Italian and English… and you’re free to roam the gardens for as long as you want, wine glass in hand, of course.

And finally my personal favourite, La Tenuta Roccaccia. Their vineyard is also just outside Pitigliano and everyone, and I mean everyone, says they make the best Bianco di Pitigliano.

My hubby says it, Valentina says it, everyone I have spoken to while researching this post says it. The locals just can’t get enough, and tourists get the added bonus of being able to stay on the adjacent agriturismo and indulge in all the wine they want.

Oh, but you don’t have to stay at the agriturismo to join in on the regular tastings and wine courses!

Ansonica Costa del Argentario

Ansonica isn’t like its fellow Maremman wines. For one, you can actually try similar versions of this white on Elba Island, Sicily and Sardinia, where it’s called Inzolia.

This is because the grape that makes up 85% of the wine, also called the Ansonica, is also grown of these islands too. It’s a sweet, light yellow, almost white berry that grows in tall terraces that are very hard to pick from.

Again, you really have to blame, or thank, the Etruscans for this. The Etruscans were seafarers who had a particular soft spot for the Tuscan Archipelago and Italy’s other islands.

Wine archaeologists, or whatever they’re called, think the Ansonica might be descendant from the ancient Greek varieties Rhoditis and Sideritis, so you’re pretty much drinking a wine that has 2,000-year-old roots at least, which is mental.

For wine lovers, the Ansonica stands out as the Maremma’s one and only seaside wine, as Valentina likes to call it.

The intense sunlight, high temperatures and sea winds come together to produce a wine that has a high alcohol and salt content. Now I know that sounds absolutely disgusting, but the Ansonica doesn’t taste like a sardine in a bottle.

Instead, it’s the most perfect golden colour like the nectar wine you read about in all those Greek mythologies.

It’s ideal with vegetable soups and white meat, but you have to be really careful not to overwhelm its delicate flavour, which oenophiles would describe as “soft” and “fresh”.

Where to get it:

You can’t go past buying the Ansonica at its source: Giglio Island.

None of the island’s vineyards have their own website, they’re too small or, if you want to get fancy, boutique. But Altura di Mattia Vedis Carfagna is on the Strada del Vino e dei Sapore Colli di Maremma, otherwise known as the regional wine trail.

These winemakers mean serious business. They’ve been making the Ansonica for generations. Their vineyard is in prime position on the most gorgeous southern corner of the island and they’re extremely friendly.

For tours and tastings, you have to ask at Ristorante Arcobalena, which is in Giglio Castello. This might sound strange, but all the family-owned businesses on the island are run this way. Otherwise give the vineyard a call on +39 0564 806041.

Of course, if you don’t feel like a ferry trip and a chance to gawk at the still half-immersed Costa Concordia cruise ship then definitely visit Vini Parrina in Parrina, near Albinia. This absolutely stunning vineyard doubles as an agriturismo, so you can stay the night if you really want to indulge.

The vineyard also produces some of the other DOC wines I’ve mentioned, both red and white, but is most famous for its own DOC, the Parrina. Both the red and white versions of the Parrina are light and fruity.

You can taste and buy these at the cantina on the vineyard or online.

A quick word about IGTs

I know I’ve used up my word limit for this post, but I had to slip something in about IGTs.

IGTs aren’t bound by strict traditional and territorial rules like the DOC wines. If you make a DOC wine, you’re making a drinkable ode to the landscape you live in. There is recipe you must stick to.

IGTS on the other hand are fantastic wines completely unbound by any territorial rules. The winemakers who produce them can play with grape varieties, percentages and tastes until they get the perfect tipple.

What I’m trying to say is, don’t just try the DOC Maremman wines. The IGT are just as good, if not better, especially if you’re dealing with a master winemaker like Riccardo from Vini Montauto, whose IGT red and white are both multi-award winners.

The path to Vitozza is tight, winding and, honestly, a complete mess.

Driving down it, I’m tempted to turn back, telling myself there’s no way Italy’s largest rock city could be hidden at the end of a dirt road.

But to my surprise, the dust lifts to unveil a vast, lush forest, where towering trees block out the sun and the temperature is wet and cool even on a sunny day this late in April.

It’s here, under this wild forest that hundreds of people used to live, some in houses, but most in massive caves. And by caves, I literally mean caves. Carved deep into a huge cliff of rock and surrounded by endless rows of oaks and firs.

Vitozza is about 10 minutes from Sorano,  but the people who lived here had no interest interacting with this medieval city. Instead they created their own little world among the tangle of trees.

The origins of Vitozza’s rock city can be traced back to the 12th century, but archaeologists have found evidence to suggest the first men to live in these caves were prehistoric, arriving before the Etruscans.

As far as I know, historians have no idea why an otherwise healthy community of people would want to go and live in a cluster of caves deep in the Maremman forest.

It’s possible that they were trying to escape the Aldobrandeschi, who were cementing their undeniable and absolute power in the Maremma during this century.

Whatever the reason, Vitozza is now one of the most incredible and unbelievable sights in the region, and almost no one knows about it.

All in all there are 200 caves hidden among the trees. Some are natural, while others were carved out by the people themselves.

Now your immediate thought is probably that whoever lived in these caves wasn’t particularly smart, but in actual fact, Vitozza’s community was incredibly well organised.

The first batch of caves you come across are two to three stories high. The upper caves would have been the people’s homes and were accessible by wooden bridges  and ladders that would have been raised at night for security.

The second batch of rectangular caves were where they housed their animals, while the third are shaped almost like semi circles and would have been communal dining areas.

But it’s the final final group of caves that captured my imagination. They’re Roman built and have been nicknamed colombari (doves) because they were where the people of Vitozza raised the doves and pigeons they sold at the local market to support their community.

Further out into the forest, you’ll even find an old Aldobrandeschi castle complete with towers and a moat. If you get a little closer you’ll see the castle protects a quaint little church and a few crumbling cottages – remains of Vitozza’s most habitable city.

Amazingly, people lived in Vitozza’s caves right up until the end of the 17th century.

For the rest of Europe, the 17th century  was a time of innovation and, yes, while others were inventing the reflecting telescope, champagne and the pressure cooker, it might seem strange that these Maremmani were living in caves.

Isolated, they spent their days like their ancestors did, getting everything they needed from the land, unaware of the grand manor houses and submarines that were being built elsewhere.

But it’s this that makes Vitozza so enchanting. When you leave that dirt road and walk under the shelter of trees, you’re leaving the modern world.

Vitozza is truly Maremma of the Middle Ages, no tourist shops and no gimmicks, just grottoes as they were 400 years ago, carved into the landscape as everlasting symbols of a population that lived a simple life in a natural paradise.

And just for the record, the people didn’t want to leave Vitozza in the 17th century. They were forced to move by the Grand Duke of Tuscany, who didn’t think it was proper for his people to be living in caves.

I’ll be the first to admit I know nothing about wines. Zip, zilch, niente.

Until a year ago, my favourite wine was an unlabelled Moscato di Asti my local bank gave away for free with its annual Christmas hamper.

Who am I kidding? It’s still my favourite wine. The only reason I don’t drink it anymore is that my bank started sending another wine in its place and I haven’t been able to find it since.

Phew… now that that’s out of the way, you can understand why I got some help writing this post.

Though I will say, the Maremma owes part of its burgeoning tourism fame to its incredible wines. The reds and whites of this region are so incredible they helped put the Maremma on the international stage. Wine connoisseurs and just plain snobs were desperate to know more about the humble and under-recognised corner of country Tuscan that made such amazing wines.

The region now attracts a healthy flow of tourists who come for nothing more than the chance to stroll through the vineyards and speak to the winemakers who have been doing the same thing for generations.

With that in mind, I put my head together with my dear friend and expert sommelier Valentina to pick our three favourite Maremman reds and best vineyards to buy them at. Although you don’t have to be in the region to indulge!

1. Morellino di Scansano

The Maremma produces a lot of fine wines, but none of them come close to the superstar red that is the Morellino di Scansano.

I like to call this wine the ‘Rebel without a Cause’ of the wine world, completely sweeping the poor, over-saturated Chianti out of the way with its bravado and pure celebrity attitude. It’s an extremely young wine too, only becoming a DOCG in 2007, but people have been singing its praises ever since.

On a more sophisticated note, the Morellino, when it first came out, was regarded by those in the know as the perfect expression of the Sangiovese – the red grape Tuscany is renowned for growing – so I guess my rebel description, while rather boorish, isn’t too much off the mark.

The standard Morellino is made up of 85 per cent Sangiovese red grapes and is an intense ruby red. Its perfume is straight and intense and its taste dry in the mouth with even tannins and a slight bitterness. It other words, it’s a wine for every meal!

Every September the Morellino is given its dues at the Festa Dell’Uva in Scansano. Don’t get me wrong, the Scansanese never pass up an opportunity to rub your face in just how awesome their national tipple is, but this festival is an extra special occasion.

They spend months preparing it, with the highlight being the annual award for the world’s best Morellino – something all the local vineyards would kill to win.

Where you can get it

The grapes for the Morellino di Scansano are grown in the idyllic pastures around Scansano and Magliano in Toscana.

Terenzi is one of the largest and most exclusive vineyards in Scansano. Their wine tasting room looks like a typical Tuscan living room with divans and antique furniture. Gorgeous! And they do regular tastings of not just the Morellino, but of their olive oil and grappa.

You can also dine at their restaurant or take cooking classes all on the stunning sprawling vineyard. See www.terenzi.eu.

The Enoteca dei Mille is another great place to get amazing Morellino di Scansano. The cellar is right at the centre of Scansano and is seriously chic, stocking all the year’s best red wines.

There is also a fantastic and affordable tasting menu of Maremman antipasti to accompany them. Visit www.enotecadeimille.it

2. Aleatico di Gradoli 

While it’s not whipping oenophiles into a frenzy like the Morellino di Scansano, the Aleatico di Gradoli is still a remarkably mild wine and is produced high in Alta Tuscia, near the eerily beautiful Bolsena Lake.

The vineyards that produce this wine have the most unique and incredible microclimate. Bolsena Lake was actually once a volcano, so the soil around it is the purest black and filled with this cocktail of minerals that mean you can’t reproduce the Aleatico anywhere else in the world.

The Aleatico has been a DOC since 1972, but it remains a bit of a closely guarded secret internationally. Almost as if the wine lovers of the world aren’t keen on sharing their hidden treat. That said, the vintage is much, much older than its 1972 award, thought to have been brought to the Maremma by the Etruscans, who learnt the tricks of the trade from the Ancient Greeks.

When I first saw the Aleatico out of the bottle I was smitten, not with its taste, but with its incredible colour – an intense garnet red with almost violet tones, which I think represents its flavours really well. On the nose, this red is fruity and delicate, while on the palate it’s soft, velvety and sweet, making it the perfect dessert wine, especially if you’re having anything with hazelnuts or red fruits.

Where to get it:

The best Aleatico vineyards are in Gradoli and Grotto di Castro.

La Cantina Oleificio is a co-op in Gradoli. Constantly winning awards for its Aleatico, this co-op is made up of the best wine makers in the region.

Their cellar is a cute and unpretentious little spot in the centre of Gradoli, but it’s the best place to go if you want incredible wines and completely reasonable prices. See www.cantinadigradoli.com.

But for picture vineyards, you can’t go past La Azienda Agricola Pacchiarotti Antonella. The grounds are absolutely stunning, like something out of a movie. They’re in Grotte di Castro and run regular tastings. But, to be honest, I’d just go for the view… Visit www.apacchiarottivini.it .

3 Il Rosso di Capalbio DOC

This red is the wildcard of the trio.

Capalbio has been known for its viticulture since the Etruscans, if not earlier, but its modern vintners are sometimes called the scientists of the Maremma – they love to mix that ancient wine making heritage with the most up-to-date and avant garde enological technology.

And voila! The Capalbio red was born and became a DOC almost immediately after in 1999, making it another extremely young wine for the region.

The Capalbio DOC is considered to be the Morellino’s main competition and in actual fact, many Maremmani actually prefer to the bold and brutish Morellino.

The Morellino has a tendency to dominate a meal, regardless of what you’re serving, while the Capalbio acts as more of a complement, taking a bit more of a backseat on the palate, so to speak.

Or to put it in very fancy wine speak, this red is dry and well-orchestrated on the palate, but vinous and quite intense on the nose. It’s the most beautiful vibrant red colour and goes well with medium aged cheeses, legume soup and deli meats.

Where to get it:

The Capalbio DOC is made in and around my hometown, Manciano, and in Capalbio, of course, and Orbetello.

If you’re in my neck of the woods, you can’t go past the Casa del Formaggio. The family owned business is a gourmet food store packed with all of the Maremma’s most delicious goodies, including the Capalbio DOC. See www.lacasadelformaggio.com.

You could also try the Cantina di Capalbio in the heart of Capalbio.

Design your own:

Last year a very clever bunch of Maremmani launched Maremma Vigna Mia – a boutique vineyard where the label on the bottle you buy can be anything you want.

While they might be small, the wines they make are exquisite and the personalised labels seriously clever. And the best part? You don’t even have to be in the Maremma to indulge in a bottle with your picture or special message on it. You can order online on their very cute website.

Pasquetta (pronounced Pas-QUE-tta) or Easter Monday isn’t a strictly Maremman or Tuscan tradition. It’s something all Italians cherish and one of the most memorable public holidays in the country.

In normal circumstances, any religious holiday is spent with your family in Italy. No questions, no if or buts, and definitely no breaking the rules for your new boyfriend or girlfriend!

But somewhere in modern history, the powers that be dictated that Pasquetta could be spent with your friends without your grandma (or nonna as we call her) disowning you.

Young boys and girls rejoiced and the annual Pasquetta barbecue or picnic tradition was born!

When I first moved to Italy, I couldn’t get excited about Pasquetta. I was too busy feeling cheated by the fact that Italians work on Good Friday.

I mean, come on, it’s public holiday in Australia and we’re Anglicans! You’d think the Pope would extend the same courtesy to his own people.

But I digress. If you’re in the Tuscan Maremma for Pasquetta, you’re in for a treat… unless you feel like shopping, then you’ll have to sit tight because all the shops are closed.

You don’t have be Italian to celebrate Pasquetta.

Just do as the Maremmans do – pack yourself a picnic and head for the nearest sunflower field.

What you’ll need for a Maremman picnic:

What you have in your picnic basket is really up to you. Visit your nearest panifico and pick up a really nice loaf of bread and then stuff it with cold cuts.

This might come as a surprise, but most Italians don’t shop at delicatessen. They don’t really exist. The nearest Coop supermarket will have better proscuitto, salami, pancetta and cheeses than any of the high-end delis back home.

When it comes to food, the Italians demand quality. Coop might be a chain supermarket, but the cold cuts and cheeses are fresh, locally produced and sliced to order. The fruit and vegetables might be bulk packed but they’re usually nicer than the ones at the green grocers too. Any other way and they would have gone out of business years ago.

The same goes for wine.

Back home, a good bottle of wine will cost you a fortune. That’s just the way it is. But in Italy, you should never pay more than €10 for a bottle of wine.

In the Maremma, you can get incredible bottles of the local superstar red wine, the Morellino di Scansano, for that price. The local white wine, the Bianco di Pitigliano, is the same. And both are sold in the local supermarket, so stock up for your picnic and be sure to bring a few bottles home!

As for dessert, you’re on your own.

The Italians and the Maremmans in particular don’t actually like dessert. I guess you could pick yourself up a really nice peach and a bottle of champagne. Otherwise, stick to traditions and buy a box of cantucci – those delicious almond biscuits. They’re a nice end to any meal.

Pasquetta events:

Like I said before, Easter Monday is a big deal in the Maremma, which means there will be plenty of events, festivals and sagre (traditional food festivals) for you to go along to.

These events change every year, but you can be pretty sure a town near you will be doing something, so keep an eye out for the posters advertising Pasquetta events.

I know Manciano is having a big musical and food festival on Monday afternoon. While in Porto Santo Stefano, the annual Pasquavela sailboat race promises to whip the entire coastline in a party mood with outdoor concerts, organised dinners and free giveaways.

Tips for travelling during Pasquetta:

If you’re already in the Maremma during Pasquetta then these tips might be a little redundant, but there’s always next year… Italy really is beautiful during the Easter holidays.

• Public transport is not existent on Pasquetta so if you don’t have a car, you’re on foot
• Pasquetta is one of the few times in the year when you cannot roll into a Maremman town or city and find accommodation without pre-booking. The same goes for restaurants
• You’ll be hard pressed to find any shops or supermarkets open so plan ahead
• And finally, take advantage of the beautiful weather and get outdoors. That’s what everyone else is doing!

Back home, we never really celebrated Easter.

Sure we did the chocolate bunnies or bilbies if you wanted a native version… some bright spark thought giving Aussie kids chocolate bunnies sent the wrong message, what with rabbits being an environmental pest in the bush and all… no surprises for guessing that the little ones were less than impressed.

But it wasn’t until I came to the Maremma that I realised just how unforgettable Easter can be.

My first Easter in Tuscany remains one of my most beautiful and beloved memories of the place I now call home.

I had only been in Manciano for a couple of weeks and was staying with my host family. Despite their incredible generosity I was feeling a little grumpy on Easter morning. I was young and I missed my mum… it was a looooong time ago.

But when I walked into my ‘host nonna’s’ kitchen, I was greeted by a humbling and completely comforting sight – La Colazione di Pasqua or Easter breakfast. Nothing fancy, just a collection of traditional Maremman treats.

Looking back, I think the meal represented everything that is so lovable about this region – the genuineness of the local produce, the respect for tradition, and above all, the idea that familial love can be shared through food.

Needless to say, I soon forgot about feeling sorry for myself, especially when my host dad showed me the roasted lamb spit they had slowly cooking for lunch!

All these years later, I still celebrate La Colazione di Pasqua, even if I’m not in the Maremma. The ingredients for the breakfast are so easy to get that you make it anywhere.

You don’t have to be Maremman, Tuscan or even Italian to try it! You can always swap these ingredients for your own Easter treats. After all, the real fun is in sharing a special meal with your family before the early morning Easter egg hunt or chocolate feast!

The traditional Maremman breakfast has four ingredients:

• Capicollo or cured ham
• A hard fresh cheese like pecorino
• Eggs blessed by the local priest and dyed bright colours
• and La Schiacciata di Pasqua

La Schiacciata di Pasqua is a sweet bread flavoured with aniseed essence and served with thick lashings of fresh ricotta.

Instead of just being a plain loaf, this bread is twisted to look like a piece of rope and studded with brightly coloured eggs. These eggs are dyed and left whole to cook in the oven with the bread.

There’s always a fight in my house as to who gets to the eat these eggs, so I always make sure I put in enough eggs for everyone!

This recipe below actually belongs to my ‘host nonna’. She showed me how to make a couple of years ago and I love it so much that I sometimes indulge in baking it out of season. I usually leave out the eggs and just bake the bread though. It’s especially nice with raspberry jam in the mornings!

It’s deceptively easy to make with most of the work being done by the electric mixer

La Schiacciata di Pasqua

- 3 cup plain flour
- 1/4 cup sugar
- 1 dry packaged yeast
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 2/3 cup warm milk
- 2 tablespoons softened butter
- 7 eggs
- 1/2 cup mixed candied fruit, chopped
- 1/4 cup blanched almond, chopped
- 1/2 teaspoon aniseed essence

Method:

In a mixing bowl, combine 1 cup of flour, sugar, yeast and salt. Add the milk and butter and beat with an electric mixer for 2 minutes on medium. Add 2 eggs and 1/2 cup flour. Beat for 2 minutes more on high.

Stir in fruit, nuts and aniseed and mix well. Then stir in enough of the remaining flour to form a soft dough.

Turn onto a lightly floured board. Knead until smooth, about 6 – 8 minutes. Place in a greased bowl, cover and let rise in a warm place until doubled, about 1 hour.

If you want, you can dye the leftover eggs, in their shells of course, or just leave them plain. Rub the eggs with oil and set aside.

Punch the dough down. Divide in half. Roll each piece into a 24 inch sausage. Loosely twist ropes together and place on a greased baking try to form a ring. Pinch the ends together. Gently split the rope twists and tuck the eggs into openings. Cover and let rise until doubled, about 30 minutes.

Bake at 350°F (170°C) for 30 – 35 minutes or until golden brown.

Serve warm with ricotta and jam.

Buona Pasqua!

I feel so mean telling my fellow intrepid travellers what they should/shouldn’t be doing in the Maremma.

So don’t take these don’ts as hard and fast orders. I’ve lived in the Maremma for five years now. I’d like to think I know my stuff and I’m not one to keep paradisaical holiday destination to myself, hence the website.

If you were clutching at straws, you could say these don’ts are my really forceful way of making sure you experience everything the Maremma has to offer. In other words, I’m doing you a very backhanded and somewhat loose favour!

Oh and if you have no idea what I’m rabbiting on about, read Part 1: The Dos and Don’ts in the Maremma, and it will all make perfect sense.

1. Dont stick to the tourist sights
We all know the Saturnia Hot Springs are amazing and Pitigliano is magnificent, but there are so many other sights that are just as beautiful, but have half the tourists.

Just off the top of my head, I could recommend Cala Violina, the mind blowingly beautiful beach near Castiglione della Pescaia, where the sand is so soft and clean that it sings like the strings of a violin when you walk on it. Then there’s Montemerano with its idyllic piazzas and courtyards, Santa Fiora’s hidden Garden of Eve, complete with carp pool, and the Parco della Maremma Wildlife Reserve.

2. Don’t eat off tourist menus
Even if you don’t speak a word of Italian, you should avoid translated menus at all costs. It’s not the end of the world if you do walk into a restaurant and they hand you an English menu. It just means your dish won’t be as authentic as it could be.

Very few Maremman restaurants outside of the main spots, Grosseto, Massa Marittima, Pitigliano and Saturnia, have English menus, so you’re usually assured good grub at a reasonable price when you eat anywhere else. And interpreting Italian menus isn’t as hard as you might think. Just look out for:

• Cingiale: wild boar
• Acquacotta: vegetable soup
• Lepre: hare
• Ragu: a thick and meaty pasta sauce
• Pappardelle: a type of pasta
• Ricotta: ricotta 
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3. Don’t hope for a shopping spree
Italy and clothes, the two are pretty much mutually exclusive, but the Maremma isn’t the place to be if you’re looking to scoop up some designer bargains. I still remember the first time my very Australian siblings visited me here. The shock when I explained to them that neither Diesel nor Zara were within their reach… ah, the look on their faces still makes me laugh!

That said, you can still shop in the Maremma. Massa Marittima, Follonica and Grosseto all have a good handful of stores, while if you’re anywhere else in the province you can pick up some very thoughtful souvenirs. Think handmade silk scarves and cotton dresses, ceramics, wooden chopping boards and, of course, homemade conserves and sauces. The Maremma is, after all, a rural country destination and simple treasures like these are part of its charm.

… here are three more don’ts because as usual I’ve waffled on too much:

4. Don’t expect every beach/sign/attraction to be clearly marked: The Maremmani have a somewhat lax attitude to signage. Most of the attractions located outside of the cities aren’t marked, but if you can’t find them, and you probably won’t, just ask. The locals are always more than happy to show you in the right direction.

5. Don’t hide out in your agriturismo: There are some amazing places in the Maremma. Beyond your hotel pool and deckchair are hidden hot spring oases, spa centres, vineyards, horse riding schools, 3 star Michelin restaurants… the list is truly endless.

6. Don’t miss out on the traditions: The Maremma won’t be quaint, charming and authentic forever. I have the feeling that the province will eventually go the way of the rest of Italy – swapping its traditions for tourists, so enjoy it while you can.

It’s not often that you can say you’ve experienced how another country really lives, eats and celebrates!

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While the title of this blog post might seem a little ominous and frankly authoritarian, that was never my intention.

There is nothing dangerous or frightening about the Maremma.

You can photograph anything you want, wander pretty much anywhere you like and eat or drink absolutely everything, unless you get a little queasy about offal or have a soft spot for cute and fuzzy animals… then you should steer clear of trippa (tripe) or conigli (bunnies).

In that light, think of this post as more of an experiential guide to getting the most out of your trip to this undiscovered paradise.

Very holistic I know, but the Maremma is a little different to the rest of Tuscany and a lot different to most of Italy. Most Maremmani don’t consider tourism to be the main source of income for their province, no matter how beautiful it is. Instead they prefer to think it’s agriculture.

In actual fact, it’s tourism, but it’s this local frame of mind that ensures plucky tourists the very rare opportunity to experience an authentic slice of Tuscan life.

So should we start with the dos or the don’ts? I prefer a more optimistic take on life, so let’s hear the good stuff first!

1. Do try the food 
We all have to eat, but sometimes the temptation to stick to the familiar while on vacation is plenty strong. I should know, there’s a MacDonald’s in Grosseto that I’m sometimes too weak to resist, even after all these years.

BUT the Maremma is one of the few places where you can still get an authentic Italian culinary experience, so don’t miss it. Unctuously satisfying acquacotta soup, rich game sauces, homemade pasta, fresh ricotta by the bucketful.

And if the thought of leaving the Maremma and all this gorgeous food saddens you beyond words, take a cooking course. There are plenty to choose from, but they’re all taught by locals, so you know the dishes you learn are ‘just like mamma used to make.’

2. Do get out and into the countryside
How ever you do it, hiking, biking, walking or horse riding, do leave your hotel and go for a wander in the Great Outdoors. A very small percentage of the Maremma is inhabited. The rest of it is or should be a nature park, especially when you get to Monte Amiata, where almost every inch of space is protected.

The Maremmani have based their heritage, their culture and their traditions in this landscape. It is what continues to define them, so you can’t say you have seen the province, if you haven’t trekked its oak forests, admired the view from the top of Monte Labbro or simply run your hands through the sunflower fields that paint the countryside yellow in spring.

3. Do visit a beach
You mightn’t think centralised Tuscany is a seaside hotspot, but you’d be wrong. The Maremma has some absolutely gorgeous beaches. It’s up to you to decide whether you want to swim in one of the easy-to-find and bustling family friendly beaches or keep walking until you stumble upon a stretch of sand to call you own.

Just remember that some Maremman beaches are technically privately owned. This was initially a foreign concept to me, coming from Australia where all the beaches are free, but it’s not that surprising when you consider that Italy sold its freeways to Benetton.

So when you find your chosen beach, just keep an eye out for coloured cordons or deckchairs lined up on the sand. These usually indicate that the beach is ‘privately owned’. To swim here all you have to do is pay a small rental fee for the deckchair or umbrella.

… And here are some more quick dos:

4. Do experience a festival or sagra: These are not for tourists, they’re for the locals and there is nothing more colourful, beautiful or enjoyable than seeing the Maremma in festival mood.

5. Do rent a car: The Maremma makes up one third of Tuscany. You can’t hope to see it all unless you stay for a few months, but you can make life easier by avoiding the somewhat restricting public transport system. The roads are pretty deserted, so it’s quite safe.

6. Do read up on the Etruscans before you go: The Etruscans built the Maremma. I’d never heard of them before I came here so it took me a while to catch up on this amazing civilisation. As their ruins make up most of the Maremma’s most beautiful historical sights, you should Wikipedia them at the very least.

Arghh… it seems I’ve run out of space, so I’ll save my don’ts for my next blog post: Part 2: The Dos and Don’ts in the Tuscan Maremma! 

The snow has finally melted! Hurrah, or as my adorable father-in-law says, ‘Urra’ (Italians are hopelessly useless when it comes to pronouncing ‘h’).

It’s still early days, but you can feel Spring or La Primavera in the air. Now do you get the very clever title of this post? Okay, so it’s not that clever, but I’d like to think it’s a little bit witty.

Spring is actually the best time to see the Maremma. Most tourists naturally gravitate towards summer when they plan their dream vacations in Tuscany, but that’s not always the best idea.

If you’re travelling with children or elderly relatives, or just have a low tolerance for heat then you want to give a Maremman summer wide berth.

I know you mightn’t believe it now, what with all the snow, but the Maremma can get quite nasty in summer. A lot of the bigger cities like Grosseto and Massa Marittima average weeks of stiflingly hot and humid days each year – enough to ruin your vacation if you don’t like the heat.

But in March, April and May, the weather is predictably mild. The fields are bursting with the vivid orange glow of thousands upon thousands of sunflowers and you can explore all of the region’s incredible outdoor attractions without worrying about heatstroke.

And so, to formally say benvenuto to Spring, here are 5 of my favourite activities to ring in the new season!

1. Visit the Terme di Saturnia Spa Complex
In January and February, Saturnia is eerily quiet. The spa complex is closed and the Cascate del Mulino are too damn cold. Soon everyone is reeling from thermal-spring-withdrawal symptoms – a terrible affliction that attacks both locals and tourists until they are utterly unable to do anything but feverishly count the days until the spa complex opens once more.

Well, lucky the Terme di Saturnia Spa Complex has just opened for 2012 and there’s no better way to break in spring than with a dip in its heavenly warm waters!

The Terme di Saturnia Spa Complex is just before Saturnia on the Strada Provinciale Follonata or SP10. Entry tickets are €22 for adults for the entire day. €14 if you only want to swim in the afternoon.

2. See Vulci
The Maremma was once the centre of Etruria, the pre-Roman empire of the extremely civilized and cultured Etruscans. That means, you can take your pick from literally handfuls of incredible archaeological sites. My pick is Vulci. While not technically in the Maremma, it’s 20 minutes from Manciano and was once one of Etruria’s most magnificent cities.

Vulci is open every day from 9am-5pm in March and 10am-6pm in April and May. The entry price is €8 for adults.

3. Take a Strada del Vino
Live the Tuscan dream – rent a car and drive down one of the three Strade del Vino or wine trails that snake their way through the region.

If the Italian cuisine could be a season, it would be spring. The crops are just starting to recover from the winter chill and the Maremmans are savouring some of their best loved vegetables like fagioli (broad beans) and zucchini. So frolic among the farms, taste what the Tuscan earth has to offer, and, above all, try the incredible Maremman wines straight from the vineyard.

You can pick up a map for your chosen wine trail at most tourist information centres. The map will have details of all the participating farms and vineyards. All you have to do is call up and book a visit.

4. Learn to ride a horse… or bike
No I’m not joking. The Maremma is best experienced on horseback. That is how the ancient butteri or local cowboys did it when this region was still a magnificently wild place, and that is how I did it extremely recently when I had my first experience riding my four legged friend Red.

A lot of the Maremma’s most spectacular natural beauty is still off the beaten track. There are plenty of equestrian schools in the area that take tourists of all experience levels out for an afternoon, day or even a weekend trip. Try for Pietriccio Rosso English speaking tours.

Otherwise, you could rent a mountain bike and explore the Maremma on wheels instead of hooves!

5. Scuba dive the depths of the Tyrrhenian Sea
Sure the water’s cold, but it’s always going to be cold, so you might as well take advantage of the low springtime tourist deals and get out there and see the beauty of the… sea! But seriously, the splendor and allure of the Maremman countryside is only matched by the bounty the sits off its shores in the Argentario Coast.

You can book a scuba diving tour from at least 20 different clubs in Porto Santo Stefano. Try the Argentario Scuba Point Centre for full day or night English tours.