Castel del Piano
“… Castel del Piano to the beauty of the place, for the convenience of its position… it is without a doubt the first among those who stand near it. It is watered by limpid sources and surrounded by a perennial stream of water. Its name was given to it by the fertile plain it sits on, which extends about a mile with its leafy trees, sunny meadows and cultivated fields… (Pope Pius II)
I don’t know how I can compete with such a beautiful description, but I’ll give it a shot!
Castel del Piano sits on what can only be described as a natural paradise. Fields of chestnuts and beeches compete for you attention with rivers of spring water that ebb and flow into the catchments serving Grosseto and Siena.
Literally overrun by the vast and endless stretches of olive groves, vineyards, fruit trees and mountain forests, Castel del Piano is hard to believe. It’s a town so in touch with the environment that it blends with it perfectly and seamlessly.
Although signs of a Paleolithic or Neolithic civilisation have been found in the territory, the town’s most concrete roots sit firmly in the Middle Ages and the era of the Abbazia del Monte Amiata.
It was this powerful abbey that began building the churches that would soon earn Castel del Piano the nickname Città delle Chiese (City of the Churches). The town has no less than eight different places of worship from grand churches to more humble chapels and convents.
But it’s not just the number of churches that inspired the nickname, it’s also the beauty of these buildings. They are among the most striking and lovingly preserved churches in the Maremma, carefully looked after by the locals as reminders of their past and stalwarts of their devotion.
Don’t let the pretty face and steadfast appreciation for religion fool you though! Castel del Piano has a wild side too- it’s home to the Maremma’s biggest palio, a palio that rivals the one held in Siena. Known as the Palio delle Contrade, this fast and dangerous horse race is held in honour of the Madonna delle Grazie and sees the four districts of Castel del Piano - Borgo, Storte, Monumento and Poggio – skillfully compete to win some highly coverted prizes.
SIGHTS:
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Giardino di Piero Bonacina Hidden in Montegiovi, just outside Castel del Piano, this gorgeous sculpture garden belongs to lifetime artist and devout Buddhist Piero Bonacina. |
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Teatro Amiatino During the second half of the 19th century, Castel del Piano’s old town hall was transformed in to a beautiful theatre. |
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Cappella di Santa Flora in Noceto A rural chapel on the outskirts of town, the Cappella di Santa Flora in Noceto was commissioned by the Aldobrandeschi in 1097 and was once a secret hermitage. |
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Chiesa Parrocchiale della Nativitá della Madonna A late Renaissance building (inspired by Vignola), this church was commissioned in 1490 and is easily the town’s most striking. |
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Chiesa della Madonna delle Grazie Built in the Renaissance style, this church stands out from the rest thanks to its striking facade, made entirely out of pepperino – a brown coloured rock. |
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Chiesa del Santissimo Sacramento Built in the 13th century, this church’s Romanesque style has been altered over the last centuries, leaving it slightly confused about its architectural identity. |
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Chiesa di San Leonardo The Chiesa di San Leonardo may not be as beautiful as the Chiesa della Natività but it’s older, built on an existing 9th century church. |
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Convento di San Processo Although little more than ruins remain of this Franciscan monastery, the building still draws excited visitors who hope to find proof of a local legend. |
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Palazzo Nerucci Only one palazzo has managed to stand out amongst the grandeur of Castel del Piano’s many churches and that’s Palazzo Nerucci. |
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Art collection Today much of the main floor of Palazzo Nerucci is used as an art gallery. There are works here that rival those found in the most prestigious Italian galleries. |
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Chiesa di San Giuseppe A rather small chapel, the Chiesa di San Giuseppe’s simple exterior hardly prepares you for the splendour that lies within. |
MUSEUMS
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Museo della Vite e del Vino A museum dedicating to describing and preserving a wine making culture that has defined this region since the time of the Etruscans. |
EVENTS:
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Palio delle Contrade - September 8
This horse race was first held on September 9, 1402 when the Republic of Siena ruled Castel del Piano. Today it’s an annual event full of entertainment, colour and infectious frivolity. |















